Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Alchemy Under The Rose

Portland—When I arrive at House Spirits Distillery in industrial SE Portland, Mike Sherwood is bent over a box taping it up so he can send it on its way. It turns out to be emblematic, as this CEO is a sleeves rolled all the up kind of guy.

Sherwood, it turns out, leases space from the distillery, where he produces his own micro distilled spirits, which he markets under the Sub Rosa label.



Sub Rosa offers two products—Tarragon Vodka and Saffron Vodka. Sherwood is also planning to release a rum that’s aging in oak and a gallingal liquer. Lucky reporter that I am, I got to sample them all today in a private tasting.

As I swirl the Saffron vodka around in my mouth, Sherwood says, "note the toasted cumin coming up underneath. No one's doing that." No one, but Sub Rosa that is.

Sherwood’s motto is “Work hard. Play hard. Have fun.” in that order. It’s clear he’s having fun now, as his passion for his handcrafted product is obvious. On point one, Sherwood says it takes three-to-five years to establish a new spirits brand and that he’s only one and half years in. So, he has his work cut out for him.

Luckily, work and Sherwood are friends. He’s a former software executive, concert promoter and guild builder. He also helped to build and run Rogue’s distillery operation at the coast. Today, he works the wine harvest to help pay the bills, he consults, builds web sites and runs his bootstrapped micro spirits company—a job which demands proficiency in product development, manufacturing and distribution (hence the taped up box), sales and marketing. It’s a lot for one guy to do, which is why Sherwood doesn’t blog, Tweet or text. He has enough to do.

Sherwood says, “You want to make something that’s distinctive” and he has. No one else is making Saffron or Tarragon vodka. Even if one was, they wouldn’t have the fennel fronds or lemon mint from Sherwood’s Dundee garden or the organic tarragon from a farm in Gresham. Nor his knack for finding success via a routine of experimentation.



Sherwood says be bold. “Don’t be afraid to construct a cocktail.”

Thankfully, more and more skilled bartenders are taking him up on the suggestion. “Go to Wildwood any weekend and Ryan will make you a nice drink,” suggests Sherwood.

Sherwood also recommends brunch at Toast. “They use the Saffron vodka in their bloody marys.”

Sub Rosa vodkas retail for $29.95 and can be purchased at finer liquor stores in the Portland metro. Sub Rosa is also sold in WA, CA, CO, Washington DC and is on its way to IL and TN.

Sub Rosa vodka recipes
Hot Summer Night [aka Tarragon Smash]


1-1/2 oz Sub Rosa Tarragon vodka
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz simple syrup
Fresh mint leaves

Fresh tarragon leaves
Squirt [or sparkling water]
Lemon twist and mint sprig garnish

Muddle a pinch of mint/tarragon leaves with the lemon juice, simple syrup in bottom of rocks glass. Fill the glass with ice, pour in the vodka, and fill with Squirt. Garnish with a lemon twist and mint sprig. Great refreshing spring and summer drink. This is a mojito like cocktail. Really nice.

Ginger Snap

1 1/2 oz. Sub Rosa Saffron vodka
1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1/2 oz. fresh lime juice
1 oz. orange juice

1/2 oz. simple syrup

Shake vigorously in a mixing glass filled with ice. Pour over crushed ice in a short glass. Garnish with a sprig of fresh Cilantro. Very gingery and on the tart side, but quite nice. Cilantro garnish adds some great aromatics to this drink. Very refreshing and bright.

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